It’s happened again – I’ve fallen head over heels in love with a new restaurant – and her name is Frances.  Tucked away on a quiet corner on 17th street, just ending into the Casto, this tiny, typical “neighborhood restaurant” is anything but typical.

You see, the ongoing problem I have when visiting a restaurant is I want to try to order everything on the menu.  I don’t know when the next time I’ll be back is, and when I do come back – especially at market driven places – the menu will have dramatically changed.  It’s now or never.

It’s the top section of the menu at Frances that’s made me fall so hard.  ”Bouchées” are akin to small plates – nicely priced at 6.50, it’s easy to look them over, and just order one of each for the table to share.

A few of my favorite bouchées:

Pork Trotters – I’m such a sucker for pork trotters.  She does the service of taking what sounds like a scary piece of meat, and making it into a nicely seared pork meatloaf.  Great punch of flavor in a little bite.

Grilled Calamari – Perfectly tender, tossed with arugula and squash.

Panisse Frites – Worth the trip just for these.  A light, crispy exterior, and a almost custard like interior – better than fries.

Eventually though, it may be necessary to wander deeper into the menu:

Grilled Asparagus with Radicchio Salad – nicely balanced bitterness, with a great texture from the grill. The first asparagus I’ve had this season. Doubt it’ll be the last.

Ricotta Gnocchi – unbelievably light.  By time the bowl as dropped in front of us, we were totally stuffed – and yet, we finished the whole thing.

Finally we were forced gladly ordered dessert.  We had the lumberjack cake – a not too-sweet cake made with a mix of dates and pears, served alongside a scoop of always welcome Humphry Slocombe Maple Walnut Ice Cream.

Singing the lumberjack song when your waiter introduces the dish is entirely optional.  I did.

Chef Melissa Perello has done an outstanding job making Frances a destination small restaurant.  It has personality and charm to spare. Daily specials, like a “market shot” are listed in expo marker on an old window behind the bar.  Plus, with a tap from Magolia always flowing, you know you’ll have something to drink.

Tags: castro, frances

This entry was posted on Wednesday, March 10th, 2010 at 3:36 pm and is filed under Reviews. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. Both comments and pings are currently closed.